Monday, December 5, 2011

Content by Michael

Looking homeward

Now it’s the last day – not the last we’ll all be together, but the last official day of the team build.  So, it’s time to wrap up the active blogging about where we were & what we did. 

The early – really early – morning offered those hearty keeners a Bush Walk commencing at 5.45am.  The ever-enthusiastic Bongani led most of the group on a walk not so much to see the large and impressive so much as the nifty & overlooked – the flora; the fauna, represented by the bug life, and Bongani’s ‘I Challenge You to a Giraffe Poo Spittin’-fer-Distance Contest’.  I kid you not…  What used to pass for rural fun, we’re told.  Thanks to Brett for (almost) getting the chance! 

For the rest of us sleepy-heads, it was up with the sunrise/monkey chatter, and packing to leave the lodge right after breakfast.  We said our good-byes and packed into the van for the drive to Johannesburg. 

It was a day for quotes – some of them even thought-provoking:  “I’m young, & overconfident”, sez Brett, on the general subject of Immodium use or lack of need thereof.  And “somebody’s been in Africa too long”, states Maria, reviewing her photo of Dennis, taking a photo of animal droppings.  Now that’s entertainment! 

The plan was to drive through the mountains, stopping off to see the picturesque countryside including the Blyde River Canyon, touted as the third-most impressive in the world.  Alas, the overcast day darkened and closed in as the elevation rose such that we were enveloped in fog and drizzle.  Oh well, all we missed was the precipitous drop over the side of the roadway, enhanced by the occasional cow walking in the road to swerve around.  “Don’t worry, he can drive a stick while talking on the phone while looking out for game while operating the evening searchlight, so I don’t think we’ll be going over the side” – remarked upon Bongani’s most excellent driving skills.  We were in good hands.

We coaxed the park entry kiosk into letting us in the fog-bound park on the pretext of a potty stop, and at the parking we were rewarded by not only the WCs, but hey, Shopping!  We cruised the stalls and picked up Very Necessary Earrings and Some Right Nice Scarves.  The canyon, we are told, is impressive.

If you buy three, I will give you very good price....

Back to the van, with a cha-cha-cha of seat-changing to relieve the sardines in the rear, we passed though rolling hills of scenery compared to Norway, or the Lake District, or the Cotswolds, in various reminiscences.  “The Oliphant River – the easiest way to get back to Mozambique, without a passport”, informs Bongani. 

Down the road we pre-ordered lunch via cell phone at the driver changeover point at Dullstrom.  The restopub was top-notch.  The food was stylish & tasty, and the bathrooms, well “I’d pay five Mets for that bathroom, I tell you!” was the sentiment we could all agree on. 

We said good-bye to Bongani as we changed drivers for the rest of the ride.  This was a fairly straight shot on the toll highway through high-veld plains punctuated by regular intervals of coal mining and tailing piles on one side, and power plants on the other side.  Conversations found their way to travel plans for the way home and what would be waiting there: “When do you go back to work?” 

We rolled up to the B&B on the south-east outskirts of Johannesburg, through the gates, and into the courtyard where we were greeted by the owner.  But as soon as the luggage was unloaded, we said good-bye to Melanie for the next stage of her trip homeward.  It signalled the end of this trip blog recounting the team’s journey – enjoy the memories! 

...and that's 'The End'

Sunday, December 4, 2011

Content by Dennis

The Big Four

The day was overcast and quite a bit cooler than our first experience in the Park and it produced some totally different results – however the animal count was equally as impressive.  Our goal for the day was to make positive sightings of the Rhino and a sighting of a Leopard.  We were very successful on the first goal but struck out on goal two - which is not too surprising given the difficulty in spotting a solitary cat vs. animals that travel/congregate in family groups or herds. We did however see the remains of an Impala hanging from a tree, which had been dragged there by a Leopard!

We saw one huge herd of Water Buffalo (estimated at over a thousand); 8 Rhino’s – including an infant; tons of Giraffe; numerous small and large herds of Elephants composed of every age or animal; several troops of Baboons; and the real bonus of the day, a lion with two females and two cubs devouring a Wildebeest.  This according to Bongani is a once in a three or four month event!  Because the day was significantly cooler and it had rained the night before there was very little activity at the waterholes that were full of animals when we first visited them.   All in all, however, another terrific day – fascinating to see the animals, learn about them from Bongani, and experience the thrill of the chase as we pursued the more elusive species.

Sleek and Shiny Water Buffalo after a mud-bath

Hundreds of Water Buffalo working on Right-of-Way access to road

One great-big stinky elephant a bit too close for comfort!!

Additional Animal Sightings:

• Terrapin (Tortoise)
• Dwarf Mongoose
• Crocodile
• Common Duiker
• “Big Man In the Tree” (large Baboon sentry, watching from atop a tree to alert the other animals of any approaching predators)

Additional Birds:

• Buffalo Weaver
• Golden Tailed Woodpecker
• Red Crested Korhaan
• Blue Waxbill (Cordonbleu)
• Masked Weaver
• Lilac Breasted Roller
• Black Headed Oriole
• Brown Headed Parrot

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Content by Maria 

When we all came piling out of a long, hot, stuffy van ride to Marc’s Camp near Kruger, it was also a steamy day at our arrival point. Some of us pooh-poohed the idea that we would ever need to use the wool blankets and comforters piled on our beds in the Tree Houses, particularly when they were found on beds draped with mosquito netting. Tonight, we look forward to the soft, heaviness of these creature comforts. 

At breakfast, Bongani recommended we bring along a raincoat for the day as he commented that “the weather is changing and we will be near the mountains.” Like a vulture prophet, our guide proved to be dispensing very good advice indeed. 

Meet you at the Breakfast Nook.

The first stop of the day was to Moholoholo Wildlife and Rehabilitation Centre run by the charismatic Brian Jones. He spoke intelligently and passionately about the moon, stars, and planets and what it all has to do with the birds and animals of Africa. 

From his presentation we learned that the earth, mankind and the animals around us form an inter-dependent web which is capable of functioning more accurately than an atomic clock. He also gave some heartbreaking examples of how inhumane and destructive man can be to our fellow creatures and their habitat. We then set off on a tour of his facility and the residents who have come to live their by chance or by fate, for a short time, or forever. 

Dennis feeds a vulture

Sue and her new friend, a baby rhino

Our first new experience was personally meeting Bullet, an adolescent Cheetah in training to be a ‘wildlife ambassador,’ also known as a wild animal you can actually touch, under the constant vigilance of his handlers. The “nice kitty” treats helped too! We met several lions, a leopard and a half, various species of fascinating raptors, a muddy-leather skinned baby rhino (not a giant warthog), one grumpy hyena, the crafty honey badger couple and my personal favourite… the gregarious wild dogs, happily chewing on elephant rib bones, wagging their tails and rolling in the grass. 

Our timing got a little off track at lunch since some of South Africa operates on “African Time” and the other on “International Time,” but we eventually made it to the start of our evening game drive. It seemed odd with rain threatening that we would go out in an open-topped kombi, but by now we trusted Bongani – 55 years worth of experience, although he doesn’t look a day over 45! After his great results finding animals on Friday, our expectations were tempered, plus the weather didn’t look so promising. This evening’s drive elevated his status from amazing to awesome. 

Before the ride was over a few hours later, he had located three of the Big Five (name dates back to the time of the great white hunter, when shooting at these beast you had only one chance – kill or be killed). There was a large herd of water buffalo carefully watching us, black rhino spoor (footprints) and an “introduction” to white rhino (which in Bongani-speak means we saw them, but from quite a distance). The acme of the evening came after dark at a time when many of us were tired, cold, wet and huddled under two very popular tablecloths – that’s right, they’re rarely marketed as such, but handmade South African tablecloths do repel rain! 

Ahead in the darkness of a more densely wooded area, two lioness’ and two cubs stopped us in our tracks. Another female sheltered under a nearby tree, waiting out the sudden cloudburst. The rain didn’t dampen our enthusiasm at seeing this most fascinating family unit, and we happily snapped away taking photos and gushing over the wee babies. Bongani estimated them to be two months old since he saw the mothers carrying them in their mouths roughly six weeks earlier. 

Another beautiful African sunset

Every day Bongani comes to the bush to find animals, and today we did just that!

Friday, December 2, 2011

Content by Dennis

The Big Five

After our first night at Marcs Tree House Camp (where we are housed in a variety of very unique, but nicely outfitted thatched abodes of various styles and sizes), at 7:15 we were offered the first really substantial breakfast of our trip – and oh was it great (bacon, eggs, beans, a variety of cold cereals, juice and good - though instant – coffee, or tea, with at least two containers of milk!).  At 8:00 we were loaded into the back of two Viva Safaris Toyota pickup trucks.  They offer three rows of stadium style seating complete with seat belts and a shade panel overhead.  The top of the pickup is detached so that our guides can provide us with the appropriate info and commentary on the park.  The system works very well!  We are in 2 vehicles, with 5 other guests (from New Zealand, France and Germany) along as well.

At just after 9:00 we arrived at the Orpen Gate of Kruger National Park.  After a brief stop to check in and pay the appropriate fees we began our cruise of this part of the park.  We hadn’t gone 1 km when we witnessed a herd of Blue Wildebeest (Gnu) one of whom was pregnant and in the process of birthing – quite a start and it only got better from that point on, for the next 8 hours.  During the morning we saw:

Animals:

1. Nyala
2. Impala
3. African Buffalo
4. Rhinoceros (at a distance)
5. Warthog
6. Giraffe
7. Plains Zebra
8. Elephant
9. Waterbuck
10. Leopard (hind end only, sleeping in a tree)
11. Springbok
12. Steenbok
13. Hippo
14. Velvet Monkey
15. Lion
16. Bushbuck (rodent)
17. Kudu
18. Leopard Tortoise
19. Rabbit
20. Baboon

Birds:

1. Egyptian Goose
2. Fish Eagle
3. Crested Francolin
4. Kori Bustard (4’ tall and looks prehistoric)
5. Round Tail Shrike
6. Yellow Billed Horn Bill
7. Ostrich
8. Vulture 

Bongani – driver/guide in one of the vehicles - mimicked the call of a lost water buffalo calf to attract the attention of a lion quite a distance away, whose tail the other driver had seen while driving down the road! He also imparted a variety of interesting facts, which he says he just learned day by day, from living around the Park all his life:

1. One Ostrich egg weighs as much as 2 dozen chicken eggs
2. Giraffe have 7 vertebrae in their neck, the same as a human
3. Giraffe have the largest heart of all animals – necessary to pump blood all the way to the head
4. The Giraffe is the only animal that does not make any noticeable sounds
5. There are 200,000 Impalas in the park that act as food for predators (though lions generally hunt larger animals)
6. Steenbok is smaller than Impala, often seen alone, covers its scat, marks a range of 5 sq. km and is hard to catch because it runs in a zig zag pattern
7. One lion will eat 50 – 60 Wildebeest/Zebra per year
8. The Giraffe, Zebra, Impala, and Wildebeest are friends and are often seen together:  the Zebra eats the tall grass, the Wildebeest the medium, and the Impala the low grass
9. There are no feathers on a vulture’s head or neck because it often has to stick its head into a carcass; they have amazing eyesight – up to 80 KM
10. The Elephant population is growing because they are prone to no diseases, are confined within the park, and have no predators (though lions will attack the young if they get a chance).  They are now over populating the park – 5000 when the park formed and now over 20,000.  Average life span is 65 years.  Males weigh 5 – 6000 kilograms; tusks are different sizes depending on what the animal uses them for (a la left hand/right hand strength in humans).Males have a larger head which is more square; a female’s head is smaller and more triangular in shape.
11. Big Five:  Elephant, Water Buffalo, Rhino, Lion, Leopard (why Big Five?  Identified by hunters because they are hardest to kill.
12. For humans, the most dangerous of the Big Five are the Hippos and the Water Buffalo
13. Male Water Buffalo have a u-shaped rack; the female rack is shorter and flatter
14. Leopards hunt by ambush; their cousin the Cheetah runs down its prey
15. The leopard is the only cat that takes its prey up a tree.
16. Birdland Cellphone System:  The Bateleur Eagle sites a kill and then circles to check out for predators.  Eagles will usually only eat the eyes.  The Vulture spots the Eagle soaring (from up to 80 kms away) and arrives on the scene.  There are 7 species of vulture of which three have specific functions – can opener – opening up the carcass, organ eater, and cleaner (eating any remaining flesh)
17. An Elephant eats for 17 – 18 hours per day however most of the intake is passed through its system; its dung is foraged through by birds looking and helps in the regeneration of plants by spreading seed in this manner

There were a number of very memorable highlights; watching a large herd of Elephants spray and hose each other; having a large bull Elephant cross the road just behind us; and seeing a lioness and lion casually walk down the road right beside us, before crossing to the other side.   The last stop of the day was the return to a watering hole where we had originally seen some giraffe and zebra.   However, this time just about every animal that we had viewed during the past 6 hours seemed to be in the vicinity (along with a pack of monkeys and a tribe of baboons and even a rabbit!  It was an amazing final stop to an almost unbelievable day.  Bongani’s sage advice at the beginning of the day was to: “enjoy the experience because you most likely won’t have the chance to do it again, and you can get much better pictures off of the internet”.  Regardless, we just couldn’t resist clicking the cameras however it was still and awesome day!

A sampling of the many pictures taken that day include:

Rapt Attention

'The Thinker' babboon

They're certainly not afraid of us...

The Elephant Walk

Very interesting way that Giraffes take a drink...

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Content by Deb

The Gift of Hope

We arose at dawn in order to load the luggage onto the bus for our journey to South Africa and the next stage of our trip. Our travel time would be about 8 to 9 hrs to cross over the Mozambique/ South African border, switch buses and travel to the Safari camp.

Mike bids adieu to one of the more popular locally-produced products.

I felt a certain sadness knowing we would not be heading to the work site and I wondered if the children would notice our absence and if our local builders would miss our company and willing hands. I wish I could have had the opportunity to see Erlinda and Lizette in their new homes. The words of Ida still echoing; you not only have given these families a home, you have given them hope. The quality of their life can improve and the children can be raised in a safer, healthier, more secure environment.  

As we travelled along the highway, I found myself reflecting on the last week and a half and was very aware of how unique this time has been. When we first arrived at the village I was quite surprised by the absence of men and older boys, by the very poor condition of most of the homes in Chiconela, by the very long distances that the women travelled to get their water at the communal wells, at the strength of the women balancing 50 kilos on their head while often having a baby strapped to their back and another small child in tow.  What I didn’t see in that first drive along the dusty red dirt road to the village was the strength of the their extended village in raising and caring for each other, the small gardens in each of their homes that helped sustain their families and met a basic necessity of life, of the ingenuity in using and reusing the local materials in many facets of daily living. 

I was also aware of some of the contradictions and contrasts evident in Mozambican rural life. I watched a grandmother (who carries the traditions of her community and passes those on to her children) and lives without electricity and indoor plumbing but uses a cell phone.  Young women still wear the traditional long skirt but often over blue jeans. And, the presence of 3 Massey Ferguson tractors in a field alongside women who till the land with crude hoes as they have done so for the last thousand years. The arrival of fast food with the KFC drive through on the same block as the large market where you can pick up your live chicken to take home for dinner. Red VODACOM billboards replacing red coca cola signs. 

The drive to the South African border went by faster than I expected. I was still keenly observing the passing landscape, taking in the last images of Mozambique. Our movement across the border was different than any other border crossing I have experienced as we said good bye to Myguaya our host, unloaded our luggage and walked  half a kilometre to the entry into SA. We were met by Bogani our guide from the Safari Camp. Only another 3 to 4 hours to go! The anticipation was building as was our need to be finished with sitting in one place for so long! There were almost immediate differences I noted in the landscape. More modern agricultural practices, more modernization, and more urbanization. Larger and newer transport trucks with no people riding in the back along with a few goats. No piles of garbage and the dreaded plastic bags and bottles.  

We arrived at Marks Adventure Camp about 5.30pm and were greeted by Alice. We were told that our group had been upgraded to the Tree Houses.

Wait now - leopards?!?

Monkeys to greet and amuse us

The construction is quite rustic, with the dwellings on raised platforms with reed walls. There are tarps for window coverings and a thatched roof. They are sitting in the bush about a 5 minute walk from the main building. We saw nyalas and monkeys enroute to the tree houses. Our new adventure is about to begin.

Rick and Brett's treehouse - 20 feet up

Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Content by Judy

Today was a day of mixed emotion and joyful celebration as we completed our last day on the build site. Our two houses are pretty well completed except for the work of the finishing trades. This includes hanging the doors, putting glass in the windows and completing the floors.

The floors must be super-smooth to sleep on...

We hustled about to be sure our site looked tidy and cared for, placed a Canadian flag at the door and then wrapped Canada flag motifs around the front of the house. We were excited to be at this stage but somewhat nostalgic that after being a regular presence within the community, tomorrow we would not be here.

The celebration was attended by our recipient mothers, Lisettte and Erlinda, their children, the neighbours, numerous other children, Magaia and Ida from Habitat, the “Mayor” of the community, the site contractors and various other notables. And what a celebration it was! The only male presence was from the contractors and the “Mayor”. We had lunch together and then the ceremony began with singing and dancing which eventually included us; a pretty pathetic sight in our work clothes and boots, but we had lots of laughs and hilarity.

Celebration Dances

The locals, especially the teenagers are quite amused by us and frequently giggle at our antics. The dancing and singing was followed by speeches and our new homeowners also had an opportunity to speak. Perhaps the most poignant words were from Lisette when she said that now when she tells her friends she is going home, she has a real dwelling to go to, not just to a tree. After the speeches, there was more singing and dancing. Fortunately Mel had taught us a “Habitat” song that we could sing together. (we were not nearly as rhythmic as the locals)) This was followed by a blessing of the homes done by our team leader Dennis Anderson and an elder from the community. We then went to the other site to bless that home as well.

The Habitat song is the words of Amazing Grace done to the tune of Gilligan‘s Island:

Amazing Grace how sweet the sound

That saved a wretch like me

I once was lost but now I’m found

I’m blind but now can see 

We’re building homes here in Mozambique

We’re building hope here in Mozambique

We’re building community here in Mozambique

With Habitat for Humanity 

God is great

God is good

So we thank him for this build

We are going to thank him morning, noon and night

Because our build is out of site

Amen, Amen, Amen,

Amen, Amen, Amen. 

Group Photo in front of One of our newly-built bouses.

Submitted by Judy

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

 Sights and sounds in Xai Xai a day in the mind of Ron 

Oh no! its happened. My turn at the dreaded daily blog has arrived. My mind harkens back to earliest days as an instructor before a lecture. What will I say. Will I have enough to fill the hour. Then I remember being told: a blog might be only as simple as your memory of the day. All is calm, even a poor memory like mine can do that.

Days have become routine, not at all in bad way. I do not have my watch, not a problem here as things proceed on Mozambique time which is much like Mexican time. Instead of minutes and hours the work day begins and passes as a series of events, each only distantly related to the precise time. The big red ball rises over the horizon at about five AM; our room lights up and the hallway outside becomes a warming oven announcing that today will be another hot one. Rumbling transport trucks and the constant toot toot by van drivers show that Xai-Xai has also reawakened.

Breakfast is the usual quiet affair. Singles or pairs drift in, quiet greetings, clink of cups and cutlery, quiet conversation. This morning Maria has returned from an early run to the bakery so we enjoy bakery treats with breakfast. Dennis more officially starts our day with a brief reading of words of wisdom from Mother Teresa and we contemplate the start of our day. Vans arrive and we all pile in, each work group to their respective van. Out of Xai Xai, through the check point and bridge toll and out over the Limpopo delta.

Always different. Today rain waters have dried somewhat and tractors till acres upon acres of black earth. As far as one can see dozens and dozens of women bash the soil with large hoes and groups of young boys herd cattle, keeping them on the grass and reeds between the tilled patches. White egrets abound and strange black look alike cousins wander among them as large hawks swoop above. A peaceful, pastoral sight that disappears in the distance. Then suddenly it changes. We turn left to the real African road. We bump and swerve and rattle the now dry dirt road to our worksite. Past goats, children and adults. Past women in their brightly colored garb, many balancing on their head  huge loads of wood or containers that we would have difficulty even lifting as high as our head. The landscape is an endless canopy of mango, cashew, papaya and avocado trees under which are gardens of corn, sweet potato, pineapple, sometimes all neatly contained by bright green hedges.

We lurch to a halt and unfold out of our van at our first site. Children come running greetings fly back and forth. As things quiet we hear the ever present thump of the large wood mortar and pestle being used to crush the days corn into usable pulp. We get our marching orders for the day and group two fades into the landscape for their walk to the other site. For days now our worksite has moved to the beat of our site foreman, Pedro. Block, block, block as he demands a brick from his assistant and leads us in wall construction. The best we manage is about one block to every five of his but the site is alive with activity of mixing, moving and dropping mortar. Masa, masa, more masa has been the cry of the day. Today we plaster walls however and the cry changes to chela, chela, chela (translated from Changana) meaning put it here as Pedro directs his assistant to deliver mortar to the mortar board in his hand. Lunch comes. Hardest time of the day!

Talk about having to dig yourself out of a big hole !!

Twelve or more sets of black eyes surrounded by a ring of white stare silently at us as we consume the customary western lunch. We hear tales of Judy and Joanne attempting to carry containers of water from the local well, ON THEIR HEADS, to the worksite. This act apparently was viewed with great hilarity by the young girls who accomplished the task with somewhat greater efficiency.

The Water Pump

Judy Getting Her 'Water Collection' Badge

Hot afternoon of mixing masa passes slowly, then we pile into the vans and head down the dusty road. I decide to buy cashews and ask Magaia to find bags at the highway. None there so next chance is the Limpopo bridge. None there either but Magaia whistles and shouts for cashews in his native Changana. As if by magic a young man springs from nowhere, chases down the van and delivers two bags of roasted cashews. Quickly home to shower and discover that rabbit ears on the TV are no more. Cable is here! I follow the cable out the door and find the we in Canada have been mislead. Coaxial connectors we need not. You just twist the bare copper wires together, strip the wire mesh covering back a few cm. and wind it together and nail it to the wall. No tape needed, after all is in an inside hallway. Five sharp channels and an old MGM is playing in English. Off to market. Huge transport trucks rumble past us on the main street. On top of a massive load encased in a blue tarp stand three tethered goats, gazing rather idly at the crowds that walk almost fifteen feet below them.

Market is massive, almost a city block square. Judy heads for wraps, dozens of almostidentical stalls with endless colors and patterns, Black eyes stare curiously at us-two grey haired whites in a narrow alley of stalls. In answer to the inevitable “how much” we get 130 which is instantly retracted and changed to 150. This is followed almost as quickly by much laughter and hilarity and the price drops to 130 Mets. About five dollars. We buy two and move on to repeat the process. Mostly smiles and laughter at the strange tourists. Home to supper, another pleasant routine. Walk the sidewalk after supper. Many elderly women sweep the street and sidewalk with reed brooms, the days detritus is removed, the streets are now ready for the next day. Each day is more comfortable than the previous, one could get used to this pace but we are outsiders. Hard to believe, tomorrow is our last day, today will be but a memory.

    

Blog Status - Internet 'Issues'

Just a quick update, as we are having internet 'issues' today.

Our build is finished, and there was much singing and dancing and Kanimambo (thanks) all around.

Now we are back at our hotel to find no power = no hot water = no showers, and no internet! I am typing as quickly as I can before they throw me out of this internet cafe, which closes at 5 and it is 5:10 already.

Everyone is healthy and happy, busy trying to spend their last meticals at the market and the local watering holes. We leave for Kruger tomorrow - our itinerary has changed a bit and we now have a 5 day, 4 night safari starting tomorrow with a very long bus ride over the border. I really doubt if there is internet access at Marc's Adventure Camp, so we may not be in touch until Monday in Johannesburg.

On to the lions, tigers, and my favourite - giraffes!!

Monday, November 28, 2011

Content by Tamara

Our time in Xai-Xai and Chiconela (the village where we’re doing the build) is coming to an end.  There are a jumble of thoughts and feelings that are beginning to surface in my mind as our departure approaches.  It’s a challenge to articulate eloquently at this point. 

The conditions, poverty and scarcity in which the people of Xai-Xai and the village of Chiconela are still somehow surreal to me despite the time we’ve spent here.  While I expected it, I find myself intrigued, heavy hearted and humbled by it all.  The two families for whom we are building are single moms infected with HIV/AIDS, have no plumbing, electricity, sleep on the ground in a hut with a thatched roof with their young children and typically eat only one meal a day.

“Chima” is their daily diet.  It is made with a mais that grows in the sand literally around their home as grass does for us.  They also gather green leaves to add to it for “nutrition” and flavour.  The mother and children spend most of the day preparing and cooking it over an outdoor fire.  Eating our very basic lunch in front of them which typically consists of a peanut butter sandwich and/or one or two slices of meat on a bun is like a feast compared to what these families eat and has been a challenge for most of us.  It’s hard not to feel guilt or gluttonous when there are so many pairs of innocent eyes watching – children between the ages of 18 months up to 13 years old usually.  There’s always at least a dozen or so of them on site hovering just a few feet away and calling some of our names to just say “hello” and take the opportunity to interact with us.

Children are children – not much different around the world.  The children here enjoy any attention we give them, they play together, sing and dance and novelties such as stickers is like gold to them.  However, there are a few differences here. The children of Chiconela are extremely independent from the time that they are babies.  We often observe babies taking care of babies, even carrying them on their back in the traditional African way.  Adults are rarely around as the children wander the village and the sandy roads for miles.  They are also different in that some show no expression whatsoever.  They are stoic – they don’t smile, they don’t cry, and they barely speak.  I often wonder what goes through their minds especially when they see us – the white people who came from far away.  They are different in that most won’t go to school beyond grade 7 and will be confronted with the realities and responsibilities of adulthood at such a young age.  They are different in that children of all ages have physically demanding responsibilities in preparing meals, or herding cattle, or ensuring we have gallons and gallons of water each morning when we arrive to make cement, and gather chairs from neighbours so that we are able to sit around a patio table in comfort when we take a break.  

The children here have no toys, no tv, no computers, no games.  The only toy we have seen appears to be popular with the boys - a handmade car made of used Coke cans, twine, a few other resourceful hardware items and a stick to push it along.  Most children have no shoes and the clothes they wear are tattered and torn.  Finally, in many cases their father is either deceased, absent entirely or in South Africa working in the mines whereby they come home for Christmas and Easter only.  More importantly, many of the children are undernourished, some infected with HIV/AIDS.

A Wire-and-Coke-Can Car powered by a Stick!

 

As we soon pack our suitcases and move onto our next adventure and ultimately the “First World”, (a term used by locals here), the biggest challenge is knowing that the people and children of Chiconela will remain to struggle in their day to day lives while we live in a world of abundance, wealth, and frivolity in comparison. 

When our vans pull away on Wednesday for the final time and the children smile and yell “bye-bye” in their broken English and call out some of our names as they always do, I am confident there will be some teary eyes on our team – mine for certain.  We can take solace though, in knowing that we built a home for two families who will stay dry when it rains and who will never be forgotten by those of us who had the privilege of sharing this time with them.  I believe that they have given me the greater gift by embracing us into their home and their lives. “Kanimambo” to the people and children of Chiconela, (“Thank You” in Changana – the local African language).

- Tamara

Sunday, November 27, 2011

Content by Jean
  

Initial impressions of Africa are dominated by colours: the brightness of jacaranda and acacia trees; the rich brown hues of skin; the vividly coloured fruits, vegetables and other wares displayed by vendors; the multi-coloured traditional clothing and of the fabrics we all purchased at the market; a sunset that fills the sky. But over all this hangs the dark cloud of AIDS. I can’t stop thinking about the tragedy of AIDS and the enormity of the challenges it presents here, in this country already struggling with so many other hardships.

We all know something about AIDS, and we knew we were coming to build houses for children orphaned or made vulnerable by their parents’ infection with AIDS. But we’ve learned much more.

Mozambique has one of the highest rates of AIDS infection in Africa and Xai Xai the highest prevalence in Mozambique. This is because Xai Xai served for years as a recruiting centre for companies seeking men to work in South Africa’s mines – many, if they returned at all, came back infected with AIDS.

A chapter on AIDS several of us have read states that the AIDS statistics in Africa “look like a tsunami, a vast wave inexorably sweeping towards us and drowning millions and millions of people”. Given the advances that have been made in AIDS education and treatment, why is this so?

We learn many things that help us to understand. Because AIDS weakens the body’s immune system, infected individuals often die of familiar health challenges such as malaria or tuberculosis so the impact of AIDS is not always recognized. Further, there are those who think that the AIDS pandemic in Africa has been exaggerated by the West (some even believe that AIDS was introduced to Africa by the West as part of an effort to re-colonize).

We learn that relying on condom use for prevention is problematic when some believe that condoms in fact spread the disease, and when some men view condoms ad “un-African” and refuse to use them. Men still very much dominate this society, so women’s capacity to insist on condom use is limited. Most AIDS victims are women and their children. Further, education programs designed in the West are destined to be relatively ineffective in Africa, and the pride attached to having a large family remains.

Finally we learn that there are barriers to treatment. There is still a stigma attached to AIDS so some seek treatment without telling their partners. Treatment is available only in larger centers, challenging when very few have vehicles.

So how do our efforts to build houses respond to this inexorable tsunami? We know that our two homeowners are single mothers, both in treatment. Both have a young child whose infection status has not yet been determined, as well as other children. Neither family had housing (it is not uncommon for AIDS widows to be blamed for their husbands’ death and banished from their home and village) so their need is apparent. Beyond this, however, we have to hope that pride of home ownership enables these women to overcome powerlessness in the face of AIDS. We have seen around the world that Habitat homes change lives through building hope and a sense of self-determination. We have to trust that this will occur here in Mozambique, giving these families the determination to avoid infection and stem the tsunami, one family at a time. As Dennis’ book on Mother Teresa, which we’ve been reading as a group, notes, “The little is never little for the one or two who are helped and blessed”.

Olinda (our beneficiary) and one of her children

Today we had the opportunity to share in a church service at the Evangelical Church and to see how so many more are helped and blessed by their faith. The warehouse where the service was held was packed with people of all ages, and definitely full of beautiful harmonies, life, and joy. Our small efforts feel more promising in this context.

- Jean

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Content by Judy 

While we are so far from home, our life here is beginning to develop a pattern and a rhythm. Breakfast and lunch may be the same but every day there is something new to notice. The streets are very busy with people going to work, carrying their babies and bustling about. For most people, walking is the only form of transportation available and they routinely cover great distances. The women are so strong; they can carry a 50 pound bag of rice on their head, while walking and breastfeeding a baby. In the city, rusty dilapidated transportation vans fly by filled with people. It is all very colourful. While initially, I felt somewhat like a voyeur in some one else’s life, I am now feeling more comfortable with our presence here.

Now That is Multi-Tasking!

Our work site is a 15 minute walk from the other site and the route offers something new to see every time. There are goats, pigs, chickens, ducks, mango trees, avocado and numerous other plants as well as many dwellings and always children. We are greeted with waves and “hello’s” as we walk by.

The weather can go from fierce heat to torrential rain. We have endured several storms, thunder and lightening, a wind so powerful that several windows in the hotel simply broke, and there was rain that never seemed to stop. When we went to the ocean the other afternoon, it was windy, the waves wild and the water was extremely rough with a dangerous undertow. Not sure how anyone could be rescued if they were in any difficulty. We were pretty well the only ones out walking and we could only dip our bodies in with great care. The jellyfish were blue and no beach glass, only ground down pieces of plastic.

The people we are working with have so little. Many are sick with HIV including the little ones. The children are so amazing; strong and capable as they carry water, pound maize and attend to their siblings. They are also like children everywhere, giggling and playing with whatever is available. They enjoy having their picture taken and appear to be quite tickled with any interaction.

The market is another endless source of interest. Stall after stall of fabrics, clothing, house wares, shoes, children’s clothes and of course, food. We are all busy buying colourful wraps to wear or use as table cloths. I have never seen squares of fabric utilized in so many ways from being a skirt, to holding a child, to diapering a baby. There is no craft market here as there few tourists to purchase the goods and the products would be of no use for the locals.

Our “homes” are almost finished, quite amazing what a group of volunteers can accomplish under the direction of skilled workers. We are pretty proud of our efforts. Mixing cement on the ground and then in a wheelbarrow, setting bricks, plastering, and doing finishing effects with concrete can be very gratifying.

View of the back of Olinda's home

It is very humbling to see others survive under such difficult conditions. I am grateful for my blessings. We are so very fortunate.

Saturday was a hot and humid day, actually not too bad to work in and Sunday for our “swimming” beach trip promises to be lovely. I am looking forward to an ocean swim!

Brett was hard at work...

.. and the girls were 'jes goofin around' - Hear No Evil, See No Evil, Speak No Evil

Judy